A mother, a daughter, a deadly journey (2023)

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Miguel Barbaro

From the New York Times, I'm Michael Barbaro. This is The Journal.

[PLAY MUSIC]

The jungle that connects Central and South America is among the most dangerous and deadly areas on earth. But in recent years, the number of migrants trying to cross them to reach the United States has skyrocketed. Today my colleague Julie Turkewitz with a first hand account of the Darien Gap crossing.

[PLAY MUSIC]

It's Friday, January 20.

Julie, tell us what we should know about this place, the Darien Gap.

Julia Turkewitz

So the Darien Gap is this narrow strip of land between Colombia and Panama. Connects South and Central America. And this stretch of land is a jungle. And it is an extremely inhospitable jungle. And that's because the area is made up of rugged mountains, deep, intense mud. It is very dangerous to cross it on foot as there are deadly animals, beetles, snakes and mighty rivers.

Miguel Barbaro

Wow.

Julia Turkewitz

And it's also a changing area because it's incredibly humid. This place has no road. There is a highway called Panamericana that connects Argentina with Alaska. And the only part of that highway that was never built, that the engineers who tried it couldn't build, is that 66-mile stretch of jungle called the Darien Gap.

So what you saw over the years was that a small number of migrants, having heard word of mouth about the possibility of crossing that they could make it, braved this walk. And so between 2010 and 2020 it saw an average of less than 11,000 people crossing each year. What you have seen in the last two years is a huge historical increase in people traversing this very dangerous, in many cases deadly jungle.

[PLAY MUSIC]

Miguel Barbaro

how many people were left

Julia Turkewitz

What we saw in 2022 was almost 250,000 people crossing the Darien Gap.

Miguel Barbaro

And what explains why so many people are trying to embark on this treacherous journey right now?

Julia Turkewitz

First, the pandemic has hit the economies of South America very hard. And since the crisis was regional, this left a way out. And that exit was to the north through the Darien Gap. That demand really triggered the supply. And that opened up a business opportunity for a lot of traffickers to capitalize on what was going on between them.

Miguel Barbaro

On the right.

Julia Turkewitz

And so we see traffickers advertising on social media, encouraging people to cross the gap, and talking about this trek as if it were a vacation. And suddenly the Darién, which was once considered this impassable space, has become a highway out of the continent. And there is a group that is really concerned about all this, the Venezuelans, whose humanitarian economic and political crisis is well known.

And for Venezuelans there was an added incentive to try to close the gap because right now there is this de facto exception in US policy that allows them to cross the border, stay temporarily and apply for asylum in the United States. And that is something that almost no other nationality in Latin America has.

Miguel Barbaro

And, Julie, give us a quick reminder of what's behind this de facto exception.

Julia Turkewitz

So what we've seen since the beginning of the pandemic is that the US is turning away most people who come to the border seeking asylum. They don't let her stay. Or if they do enter, the US has the option of deporting them while they process their asylum application. This situation is different for Venezuelans.

And that's because the relationship between the United States and the Venezuelan government is extremely tense. There are very few diplomatic or economic ties between the two nations. So it is extremely difficult to put Venezuelans on a plane back home from the United States. So the result was this de facto exception. The US allows Venezuelan immigrants traveling to the US to stay while turning away many other people. And the Venezuelans understood that.

Miguel Barbaro

Got it. So now there is a strong reason for Venezuelans to attempt this trip.

Julia Turkewitz

I agree. So I had to understand this contradiction that I saw between this incredibly rugged terrain, this idea that this place is an impassable jungle, and these numbers that we were seeing, which were absolutely staggering. So my colleague Fede, Federico Ríos, a photographer, and I decided that the only way to really do this was to do the trek ourselves. And so we set out to cross the Darien Gap.

Miguel Barbaro

Tell us, Julie, about this trip.

[CHATERNA]

So I started the trip in Necocli, the beach town in Colombia that serves as the starting point for the journey through the Darién.

[CHATERNA]

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

So, from Necoclí, the migrants have to cross this great body of water, this gulf, to reach the point where the jungle begins. And I have to say that we were totally enthusiastic about the organization and the way it all played out.

speaker 1

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Then there are calls over the loudspeaker where the people who run these former tour boats, now immigrant boats, ask immigrants one by one to board their assigned boat after they have purchased their ticket.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Miguel Barbaro

So here we immediately see the business component of this.

Julia Turkewitz

Absolute.

[CHATERNA]

So we got on this ship with a large group of migrants to start this journey. And we arrive at Capurganá, the town on the other side of the gulf, the last town before humans enter the jungle.

Julia Turkewitz

So we're leaving now to start this walk. We just left what people here call [ESPAÑOL], a shelter that the city set up to help migrants find guides. We are a group of about 100 people. There are many children. They are all loaded down with bags, sleeping mats and so on. Y -

Julia Turkewitz

We then set out on a journey through the jungle that would take between six and 10 days for most of these migrants.

We pass some modest houses on the dusty road. And then you see the towering trees in front of you. And it's quite beautiful, but also quite menacing because of all the horrible stories you've heard about this jungle. And soon the terrain becomes very steep. And its very hot. It is very hot.

Julia Turkewitz

So we went up another hill. This one is not that muddy. But obviously it's just dirt. And it is very steep.

Julia Turkewitz

On this steep, rather muddy terrain, people fight. You breathe heavily. Some people start crying.

Julia Turkewitz

We were in a room where a man yelled in frustration, "Man, they told me it was hard. But you can do it. This doesn't make sense.

Julia Turkewitz

And then it starts to get really difficult. The mud becomes extremely thick. So at this point we're walking across a river. Everyone has that beat-up look, just covered in mud. You just slip and slide and sink so deep into the mud that the mud coats your wellies if you're lucky enough to have wellies and then fills your boots and traps you in place.

Julia Turkewitz

There are all these little dangers that you don't even think about. There is a tree that contains these giant spikes when you reach it. And if you get close, you'll prick your hand. Fire ants everywhere.

(Video) A Mother, a Daughter, a Deadly Journey

[CHATERNA]

Miguel Barbaro

On the right. And somehow people manage with children in their arms or on their backs.

Julia Turkewitz

Yes, many children. Lots and lots of kids.

Miguel Barbaro

Wow. [CRYING BOY]

[CHATERNA]

Julia Turkewitz

So when we're there for two days, we really start to see people fall apart. You start to get sick. You start to hurt yourself.

Julia Turkewitz

[GASP]:

Julia Turkewitz

There is a pregnant woman we see falling down an extremely steep hill.

Julia Turkewitz

She just fell like she was slipping and untied the rope and just went, slid, slid, slid, slid and hit that rock.

Julia Turkewitz

And it is becoming clear that some will not make this journey. You will not survive.

And just a few days after...

Julia Turkewitz

We also approached a dead body.

Julia Turkewitz

– We came across a dead body on the road.

Miguel Barbaro

Wow.

Julia Turkewitz

This person who apparently died on the track.

It smells like death.

Julia Turkewitz

And I can hear the reaction of person after person hitting that body.

Julia Turkewitz

There are people passing through. There are small children.

[CHATERNA]

[SPEAK SPANISH]

They say watch out, watch out.

Julia Turkewitz

And I can hear them trying to protect their children from a very, very, very horrible part of this hike.

speaker 2

[SPEAK SPANISH]

speaker 3

no

Julia Turkewitz

And then we continue. And the shocking thing is that a little later...

Julia Turkewitz

People can be heard cheering in the background. Maybe they did it past a certain point.

Julia Turkewitz

- I hear cheers.

speaker 4

courting!

Julia Turkewitz

People encourage each other, support each other.

group

[SINGING IN SPANISH]:

Julia Turkewitz

Often the adults could be heard singing along with the children just to keep the mood up.

group

[SINGING IN SPANISH]:

Julia Turkewitz

So on the fourth day we crossed Panama. We are halfway through the journey. And we are about to face the most difficult part of the walk, the so-called Hill of Death.

Julia Turkewitz

So a few more comments I wanted to say. In general, the hike is definitely, definitely much more difficult. We went up and down, up and down, uphill and downhill, very very muddy hills. They slide and slide and slide. It is almost impossibly difficult terrain. We climb trees with roots as big as me.

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And on this hill I meet Sarah.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Sarah is this little six-year-old girl from Venezuela. She is wearing a tiny pink glitter top.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And she goes up the hill of death with a man named Angel.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

He's not her father, which of course I thought. And I see Angel helping Sarah up and then down the hill of death.

Julia Turkewitz

Thus we reached the top of Banderas. We go down the hill. But it was very late at night. It's very dark. We will camp among some trees next to the river. Fede is basically making a clearing with a machete.

Julia Turkewitz

And when we arrived Angel asked us if he and Sarah could spend the night near us.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

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Julia Turkewitz

And of course we said yes.

speaker 5

[SINGING IN SPANISH]:

Julia Turkewitz

And as we set up camp for the night, I got to know Sarah a little better.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And what I learned that night, as I sat with Sarah and Angel, was that Sarah's mother had become friends with Angel and some of Angel's friends earlier on the trip. So Sarah's mother had been hurt, she didn't quite understand how, and she had asked Angel that morning if she could help her by carrying Sarah in a few places, guiding her as she trotted in her wounded state.

And finally, Angel and Sarah looked back. And Sarah's mother was gone. And when I met her, nobody knew where her mother was. We didn't even know if she was alive.

Engel

It's crazy. It's crazy. It's like this girl

Julia Turkewitz

As we camp out that night, Fede and I try to process everything we've heard about this sweet girl and what must have happened that day, as well as what her mother must be thinking.

[PLAY MUSIC]

Julia Turkewitz

And you -

Engel

I bet her mom needs to sleep somewhere else wondering if she just lost her daughter. That scares. This is scary because it's not the first -

Julia Turkewitz

Y.

Julia Turkewitz

It really seemed to illustrate how cruel this journey was that a mother was urged, some would say forced, to give up her son, her son's fate, to someone she had just met, all in the hope of reaching the Darien Gap. and she came to the United States.

[PLAY MUSIC]

Miguel Barbaro

We'll be right back.

So what happens the next morning?

Julia Turkewitz

So Sarah's group wakes up very early. And they tell us that they will leave. You will continue.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

But before they left I asked Sarah for a description of her mother in case I could see her later that day and interview her, tell her that Sarah is okay.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And I have been told that Sarah's mother is exactly like her, that she is physically identical, the same hair, the same skin. Sarah's group leaves. And Fede and I decided that we were left behind. And we will wait and hope to find the mother.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And in fact -

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

- A few hours later, a woman fitting the description comes down the hill. And I ask him, are you Sara's mother? And she calls. And she wants to know right away if her daughter is okay. At this point, it had been over a day since she had seen her only son. You've been on this trip for about six days so far. Her name is Alejandra.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Sarah's mother tells me that she has terrible blisters on her feet, blisters so bad she can barely walk.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

So we sit on a log by a river. And I asked her what brought her here. How did she get here? Why is she here?

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

She told me that she is a lawyer in Venezuela. And she earned decent money for some time. But when the country's oil industry collapsed, her business collapsed.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And for years she had to wait in long lines for food, for Sarah's diapers, for basic supplies.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And according to her, Venezuela was not a place to raise a family. So earlier this year she left Venezuela, crossing the Atacama desert on foot to reach Chile, where she thought she could start a new life. But her wages were too low.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

He could not practice law there because he did not have the proper documentation. Y -

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Alexandra tells me that she feels that the United States is letting her enter and stay in the country. And here she wants to raise her daughter. That's what brought her on this journey in the first place.

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

So let's talk about what that experience was like for her. And she is dismayed by the fact that she was separated from her daughter. She is horrified by what her daughter is going through.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

All he can think about is what this experience must be like for this little six-year-old.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

So we parted. And I kept walking, hoping to catch up with Sarah and tell her that her mother was alive and well and it looked like they were going to meet.

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[CHATERNA]

At this point it is day seven. we are exhausted. But Fede and I keep moving much faster than Alexandra. And we think maybe we can catch up with Sarah at the next camp. Finally, we finally arrived at a place called [ESPAÑOL].

speaker 6

[ESPAÑOL].

[SHOUT OUT]

Julia Turkewitz

The next camp is a place called [SPANISH]. This camp is a pretty big stopping point at the end of the trip. [SPANISH] is run by a family that sells groceries. There are policemen. There is some infrastructure nearby.

[CHATERNA]

speaker 7

Essen.

Julia Turkewitz

Y.

speaker 7

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

They don't think we should buy -

Julia Turkewitz

And once we're settled in, I start looking for Sarah.

[CHATERNA]

Sara

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And I discover Sarah and Angel. And I tell Sarah right away that I met her mom, she's only a day or two late.

Engel

[SPEAK SPANISH]

And Angel tells me that Sarah has cried a lot since the last time I saw her.

[CHATERNA]

Sara

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

He kept asking about his mother.

Engel

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And as I speak to her, she asks to wait in this camp, to wait in [SPANISH] until her mother finds her there. But it is quite clear that this camp, [SPANISH], although it has some infrastructure, is not designed for a child to sit for days waiting for her parents. It's dirty. There is really no sewage.

So Ángel has decided that they have to go to the end of the walk, where there is a government camp where the children who have been separated on this trip can stay until they are reunited with their parents, with their adults. And that's where they want to take Sarah. So I tell them that I will stay to report and that I will be there when her mother arrives. Alexandra is probably a day late. I know I can wait and try to connect with her at this camp.

Miguel Barbaro

What happens next?

Julia Turkewitz

So we wait in [SPANISH]. I see this ship coming.

Julia Turkewitz

Alexandra has just arrived on a ship. She can barely walk. She barely gets off the boat. She just limps.

Julia Turkewitz

Alexandra is on the boat. Her face is simply contorted in pain.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

His feet are so damaged that he can no longer walk. She cries. And she is shaking. She tells me that they spent the night outside because their tent broke down. She's covered in these bug bites. Her skin is red and inflamed.

[CHATERNA]

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

He hasn't eaten or drunk anything for two days.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

She keeps asking about Sarah. And she keeps asking, where is Sarah? And she just wants to move on right away to find Sarah as soon as possible. Y -

Julia Turkewitz

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

I tell him that I saw Sarah, that Sarah is right in front of me.

alejandra

[MOURN]:

[CHATERNA]

Julia Turkewitz

And all you want to do is get started right away.

alejandra

[MOURN]:

Julia Turkewitz

She does not want to eat. She doesn't want to sleep. She doesn't want to rest. She just wants to find her daughter. And so we got on this ship to go together to the UN government camp.

Julia Turkewitz

So this is Alexandra arriving in [SPANISH], this is this church in Panama where her daughter should be. She should be able to see them anytime now.

Julia Turkewitz

So we got off the boat. It has yet to be used.

Julia Turkewitz

He can barely lift his legs. Oh. [BOAT RUNNING]

One of the boat drivers helps her.

Julia Turkewitz

She is looking for her daughter.

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Julia Turkewitz

She has to climb that little hill. I know this will be very difficult for her. [SIGH]

Julia Turkewitz

She scans and scans.

Julia Turkewitz

And Alexandra's face is pure pain.

Julia Turkewitz

You really feel hope, but mostly despair. And finally, the Panamanian officials take her to one of her cabins. And there in the cabin is Sarah, her daughter.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

[MOURN]

Julia Turkewitz

So I'm in this room with my colleague. And we see this meeting happen. And Alexandra, she grabs her daughter. she holds them. And she immediately begins to ask for forgiveness.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Please forgive me. Please forgive me. I didn't leave you, she says. She wants Sarah to know that she didn't do this on purpose. She would never intentionally leave her daughter. That's the most important thing you can tell Sarah.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Alexandra touched Sarah all over and scanned her body. On the right.

And she wanted to confirm that they are together. But I also think that she wanted to know that her daughter wasn't hurt. They've been apart for three days. A lot could have happened to her.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

Sarah seemed to be in shock.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

And she almost didn't seem to believe her mother was there. Or she seemed to be struggling to understand what had happened in the last three days. She kept telling her mother that they had made it out of the jungle.

alejandra

[SPEAK SPANISH]

Julia Turkewitz

It was a very bittersweet reunion because they were finally together after going through so much, each one of them. They had just experienced something so difficult that I know will shape them both for the rest of their lives. But they hadn't even gotten anywhere near the United States. They still had a lot to do.

Miguel Barbaro

On the right. Well, we'll talk about that briefly. After everything they just went through, will Alexandra and Sarah make it to the United States?

Julia Turkewitz

Yeah, that's a really heartbreaking question. Sarah and her mother are resting for a day or two. And then they head north. They have to pay for the buses that take them through Central America. And they end up in Honduras. And when they're in Honduras, they hear about new policies from the Biden administration.

Miguel Barbaro

And what is this policy?

Julia Turkewitz

The Biden administration ended the waiver that allowed people like them to enter the United States from Venezuela at a time when very few other South American nationalities could enter the country. And essentially, Sarah and Alexandra learn that after this harrowing, harrowing, and traumatic journey, they will be turned away when they arrive at the US border.

And the Biden administration did it because they were looking at the same numbers that we are. They saw that this exception had helped lead people through the jungle. And they saw this large number of people going to the United States. And honestly, they freaked out.

And that's how they introduced this new policy. Venezuelans are now turned away. And that's what Sarah and Alexandra discover just two days after leaving the jungle. But what's interesting about this new Biden policy is that it also creates a new way for people to come and stay in the country temporarily while they seek asylum.

And essentially, the Biden administration is saying: Please, Venezuelans, don't come to the Darien Gap. Apply for this new route to the United States, which the US calls humanitarian parole, which requires you to meet several requirements, such as a passport and someone in the United States to sponsor you, which essentially says, I'm going to be your funder for a few months when they arrive.

So Sarah and Alexandra think, OK, maybe we can do that. We will try. And they apply. And talking to you, there they are. They live in Honduras. You have no family there. You have very little support. And they just wait.

Miguel Barbaro

Coincidentally, this entire harrowing journey through the Darien Gap was essentially wasted for Alexandra and Sarah in this cruel twist of fate and timing given Biden's change in policy. to no avail. There was no way I was getting her to the United States.

Julia Turkewitz

Yeah, I think that's quite an intense thing for a mother to struggle with after she's pushed herself and more importantly her son through this incredibly traumatic experience in search of something greater, in looking for something Looking for something better, a kind of security. .

Miguel Barbaro

If you are the United States, this makes sense, as painful as it is for Alexandra and Sarah and everyone who has been through this journey. And the logic is that they want to advise against this trip because it is dangerous and because the US cannot accommodate so many people, according to the White House. So has this change in policy had the effect it was intended to have? Has the number of people attempting to cross the Darién decreased since its creation?

Julia Turkewitz

This answer has two parts. The first part is that the policy worked in the immediate sense. When we came out of the jungle, about 5000 people came out and through the jungle in a single day. When this policy was implemented, the number dropped significantly almost immediately within 10 days.

But the thing is, there are still 700, 800 people walking through the jungle every day. And if you look at 700 or 800 people a day for 365 days a year, we are talking about almost 300,000 people who could cross the Darien Gap in 2023. This would follow a year in which 250,000 people crossed the Darien Gap . And we thought that was an amazing, amazing, shocking number. So this tells us that despite these policies, people are still willing to undertake this enormously difficult journey.

Miguel Barbaro

Although the number of migrants has decreased, it has not returned to the much lower numbers of years ago. And it sounds like what you say, there are still many more people crossing the Darien than ever before.

Julia Turkewitz

Absolutely. And if you ask me why this is happening, you must first look at the fact that US immigration policy from South America seems extremely confusing. They change all the time. And so people think, well, politics could be x if I go. But when I get to the border it will be different. And maybe I'll be the one to get ahead.

Second, this despair continues. The financial consequences of the pandemic continue. And third, you have to look at what's happening on the internet, the way the traffickers lure people, they advertise people like it's a vacation. And that's really happening very randomly.

[PLAY MUSIC]

And all these factors mean that despite this US policy of discouraging people from making this trip, the Darién is already open. The Darien is an open corridor for migrants that will continue to be used unless something major changes in the US or something major changes in the jungle. And that means that more and more families are putting themselves in these extremely traumatic situations because they feel they have no other choice.

[PLAY MUSIC]

Miguel Barbaro

Julius, thank you very much. We appreciate it.

Julia Turkewitz

thanks miguel [PLAY MUSIC]

Miguel Barbaro

We'll be right back.

This is what you need to know today. On Thursday, the Supreme Court said an internal investigation had failed to identify the person who leaked the draft opinion that struck down Roe v Wade in May, an extraordinary violation of the court's rules of secrecy. The investigation included 126 interviews and an examination of the court system's computers, printers, and telephones. But in the end, the mystery of who revealed the historic verdict may never be solved.

And the United States hit its debt ceiling on Thursday, prompting the Treasury Department to begin a series of accounting maneuvers to ensure the federal government can keep paying its bills. Republicans have said they will not vote to raise the debt ceiling unless the Biden administration agrees to a series of major spending cuts, a strategy likely to result in a high-stakes showdown in the coming weeks.

[PLAY MUSIC]

Tonight's episode was produced by Sydney Harper and Carlos Prieto with assistance from Nina Feldman and Clare Toeniskoetter. It was edited by M.J Davis Lin and Patricia Willens with assistance from Lisa Chow, verified by Susan Lee, features original music by Elisheba Ittoop, and is edited by Brad Fisher.

Our theme music is by Jim Brunberg and Ben Landsverk from Wonderly. A special thanks to Eileen Sullivan.

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[PLAY MUSIC]

That's it for The Daily. I'm Michael Barbaro. See you Monday.

[PLAY MUSIC]

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